Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Summer Boho Pant M7164 with a summer top Simplicity 1316

M7164 & Simplicity 1316

Pants - McCall's M7164, View B
Top - Simplicity 1316, View D

Pants - Patchwork Rayon Challis print from Helen Enox in Oklahoma City (during the family Christmas time, I slipped away)
Top - Coral Rayon Challis from either Fabric Mart or Fashion Fabrics

Pants Fitting Notes
Since I make most of my clothes, I have no idea why I don't make more pants.  RTW just doesn't fit right, so I thumbed through my fitting books to find the solution. 
The Problem - Lower Buttocks Curve (I call is saggy bottom.)
The Solution - Widen and lower the crotch curve.  
Presto - no more sagging at the back waistline.

Top Fitting Notes
Problem - Uneven shoulders, sloping shoulders, and forward rotated shoulders.
Solution - One could spend hours working on a kimono type sleeve with all these fitting problems.  Since I didn't spend hours, I still have a few left.  

See the bottom picture:
You will see the shoulder line way behind where it should be.  It almost rides even with the back neckline.  (This is a common RTW problem for me.)  The shoulder seam that travels down the sleeve twist to the back and makes all sort of pull lines.  I am trying to decide if this is a type of garment to spend some quality time with and figure out the fit or just stay with set-in sleeves.  

Top Construction Notes:
This pattern has neckline facings.  Please replace them with some type of binding.  The flopping from the facings is bothersome.

Side view

Doesn't look too bad from the back.

Top fitting issues from the shoulder.  Shoulder seam rides too far back and isn't in line with the arm.

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