Thursday, September 24, 2015

Mississippi Avenue Dress for the Fall

Happy Autumn!

It sure sounds nice, but here in Texas, the heat stays with us until late October.  So, while others have visions of coats and jackets to sew, I continue with sewing summer patterns in the colors of fall.  

This summer I picked up some beautiful lawns at Mood Fabrics in Los Angeles.  When I saw this pattern on a few sewing blogs, I knew it would be a perfect match.

Mississippi Avenue Dress by Sew House Seven

Front view

Plum floral lawn from Mood Fabrics

107 The Mississippi Avenue Dress by Sew House Seven

Construction notes:
Since this lawn is almost see through, I used French seams on the side seams.  The center front panel is done with a Hong Kong seam.  The front neckband is easy to do with a lightweight lawn, but even a quilting cotton would be too thick and bunch up.

Fitting notes:
Pattern review had a few notes from reviewers about the armholes, so my radar was alerted to any large armhole issues.  

Based on my sloper, I made the following bodice changes:
- tuck in the back between the armhole and shoulder.
-adjusted both front and back shoulder slopes (both different for the left and right).
-added about 1" to the front side seam as a FBA.  I slightly gathered the bottom of the bodice to fit to the skirt. 

That is all the adjustment needed and it turned out great!!!!
I had no large armhole issue.

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Summer Boho Pant M7164 with a summer top Simplicity 1316

M7164 & Simplicity 1316

Pants - McCall's M7164, View B
Top - Simplicity 1316, View D

Pants - Patchwork Rayon Challis print from Helen Enox in Oklahoma City (during the family Christmas time, I slipped away)
Top - Coral Rayon Challis from either Fabric Mart or Fashion Fabrics

Pants Fitting Notes
Since I make most of my clothes, I have no idea why I don't make more pants.  RTW just doesn't fit right, so I thumbed through my fitting books to find the solution. 
The Problem - Lower Buttocks Curve (I call is saggy bottom.)
The Solution - Widen and lower the crotch curve.  
Presto - no more sagging at the back waistline.

Top Fitting Notes
Problem - Uneven shoulders, sloping shoulders, and forward rotated shoulders.
Solution - One could spend hours working on a kimono type sleeve with all these fitting problems.  Since I didn't spend hours, I still have a few left.  

See the bottom picture:
You will see the shoulder line way behind where it should be.  It almost rides even with the back neckline.  (This is a common RTW problem for me.)  The shoulder seam that travels down the sleeve twist to the back and makes all sort of pull lines.  I am trying to decide if this is a type of garment to spend some quality time with and figure out the fit or just stay with set-in sleeves.  

Top Construction Notes:
This pattern has neckline facings.  Please replace them with some type of binding.  The flopping from the facings is bothersome.

Side view

Doesn't look too bad from the back.

Top fitting issues from the shoulder.  Shoulder seam rides too far back and isn't in line with the arm.