Saturday, September 20, 2014

A Girl's Style, New Look 6297 & McCall's M6499

McCall's M6499 and New Look 6297

One young girl at my house is "into" picking her own style.  She "shops" through my fabric and patterns.  She found this Simplicity 1622 pattern and wanted it for herself.  Not phased by the fact it was for a more "mature" lady, she dug through fabric to find her dream dress.

The girl's pick for a new dress.

Mom's pick for the top
Mom's pick for the dress

Thankfully, I found a girl's top and dress pattern to use for this wonderful idea.  

McCall's M6499
View B without elastic at the waist.
Done is polyester chiffon butterflies.
There is no fit factor in this top, but my daughter loves it.

New Look 6297
View D
Purple bamboo knit.
So glad I have a top to go over this dress.  The tank top sleeves are a little large or it could be the stretch in the bamboo knit.
I used clear elastic at the waist and serged the top, bottom, and clear elastic together in the seam.
Used fold over elastic on the neck and armholes.
Coverstitched the hem.
Fits and hangs great!!

Sleeves on McCall's M6499
Front view of McCall's M6499


Sunday, September 7, 2014

Ready for Fall with New Look 6301

New Look 6301

New Look 6301, View A

Brown organic cotton jersey
Can't remember if I got it from or High Fashion Fabrics.
Tends to want to stick to itself........

Easy to follow directions.  
Used knit stay tapes on the neckline.
Changed the neckline edging to a narrow strip and then topstitched down the edging.
Used clear elastic serged to the waist seam.  
See the following pictures:
Serged clear elastic to waist seam

Front neckline topstitched

Fitting Notes:

The belt is TOO SHORT!  It needs a few more inches.
I needed a FBA adjustment, sloped shoulder adjustment, and a little extra width on my left side.

Luckily, this pattern has a few darts in the side seam.  So all those "gaps" were rotated to the darts in the side seams.  I had gaps in the neckline, armhole area, and under the bust.  

One area I should have taken a little more care in fitting is the back side/armhole seam.  With a generous slope in the right shoulder, I end up with wrinkles under the arms.  I missed a few this time......

FBA for New Look 6301
FBA for New Look 6301

Great dress!!!!  
The neckline on so many crossover tops is too low, but this one has enough coverage.  
The few darts help in FBA's.  
Add a few inches to the belt and you have a great fall dress!
New Look 6301

See the short belt and the wrinkles near the arms......

Love it!!!  New Look 6301

Got a new excuse to sew fall clothes!  Lost a few pounds and nothing fits!!!!

Sunday, August 31, 2014

End of Summer, Simplicity 3750

Simplicity 3750

Simplicity 3750 Line Drawings

Fitted!!! Simplicity 3750

Simplicity 3750, View E

Rayon challis print from Vogue Fabrics

1.  Lined the straps to give a clean finish to the inside edge.
2.  Used bias strip to finish armhole.
3.  Attached the belt to the side seams.  There was TOO much stress on the belt at the side seam pivot point if the belt was free hanging.

Fitting Details:
If you notice on the pattern cover, it shows six views and states them as easy.
Well, it is easy to sew, but fitting........

Follow the pictures:

Muslin made as stated on pattern (with a few seams inside out.)

Lots of wrinkles on the back.

Side view shows an issue.

So, I did a FBA on the pattern.  

Yes, I got extra in the bust!  But there is extra all over!!!

Geting better on the back.

There aren't very many places to find details on doing a FBA on a gathered front bodice.  So, in my zeal to have more room, I got LOTS of room.  From there, I took in a little of that extra and found I still had a little extra in the front.

Almost there.

Think I had a little issue of two cottons sticking in the back and my 12 year old photographer didn't let me know.

So, here are the changes to my pattern.  

Back pieces

Front Skirt.

Front Bodice 

So, see what I got after all that work!!!

A perfect top!!!

Got rid of the armhole gaps, fitted the shoulder seam, and have enough bust room!

No wrinkles or weird things going on back here.

Side seams straight and under bust seam straight!!!!

If you follow my sewing much, you know I have a tween daughter.  Her wardrobe has been handmade almost all her life.  She now demands a say in the design process.  After a few trips to High Fashion Fabrics in downtown Houston, she has started a new "visual" method of offering design help.  She drapes a dress form in her new fashions.  (This is how High Fashion displays their gorgeous fabrics.)  

She is asking this be my next project!

A 10 year olds dream dress.
She is happy with her work!

Off to fall sewing I go........

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Another and Better Go With Kwik Sew 3869

Kwik Sew 3869 blouse

Intensely studying fit will eventually pay dividends.  I just got paid!

Kwik Sew 3869 made before the fit journey.
Notice:  Armhole too large.
Front overall length too long.
Princess side pieces too narrow and front piece too wide.  Resulting in bust point of top not over real bust point.
The back was not in any better shape.

Paisley print from Blend (I think???)
White pique from my stash for collar.

Kwik Sew 3869, View A

Very easy to follow directions.  No problems in construction.

Added length in the back.
Took out length in the front.
Added width the the side panels.
Took out width in the front panel.
Added fabric to the armhole. 
Full bust adjustment to the princess seam.
Redrew the shoulder slopes.

Now I can play tennis in this top and it doesn't pull or move!!!!
Sweet Victory!!!

Back view of Kwik Sew 3869  (with right very sloping shoulder)

Comfy fit!

Ready to go, paired with my duct tape sloper skirt!