Sunday, November 16, 2014

DIY Tween Fashion

After sewing with high quality fabric for years, my girl has developed a passion for polyester chiffon.  Polyester chiffon is like junk food for a seamstress.

She found a cute top at a local department store.  So, mom can duplicate it she thought.



Merged Simplicity 1334 and McCall's M6499 for tween fashion

Pattern
The top was a peplum with a chiffon overlay.  So, I picked Simplicity 1334 (View C) and McCalls M6499 (View A without waist elastic) and merged them.  Merging was done by tracing off the patterns and then altering the neckline until they were the same.  Lengthened the overlay.  Cut the peplum in half (lengthwise) and used knit on the top part and chiffon on the bottom.

Skirt is Simplicity 1334, View D


She loves the movement of the top.

Fabric
Top - Orange cotton jersey for the body of the top.
Orange polyester chiffon for the bottom of the peplum skirt and the overlay.

Skirt - Black rayon double knit.

She is ready for fall.

Construction
1.  Used fold-over elastic on the armholes.
2.  Serged a rolled hem on the chiffon.  It would be better to fold and hem it.  Unfortunately, polyester chiffon doesn't like the hot iron. 
3.  Simplicity 1334 is a SHORT top.  Next top I will lengthen the body.
4.  Added clear elastic to the neckline to control the shape.

I have no idea why we wear hair bands on our wrists!

Have fun preparing for Thanksgiving!



Sunday, November 9, 2014

My LBD (Little Black Dress), Burda 7081

Burda 7081 LBD

I finished my little black dress late in the summer season.  Well after my trip to Alaska, where it would have been a perfect dinner dress on the cruise.  So, it has sat in my sewing room and closet.  But I found a cute pin on Pinterest that let me wear it further into the fall season.  (Ok, fall just arrive in Texas......we hit a low of 50.)

My Pinterest Pin with the LBD, denim jacket, and black boots.
Stylin' almost like Pinterest.  My husband said this outfit looks fine if you are going for a nice black dress with a denim jacket.  He couldn't understand why I would cover up the dress.  

Pattern
Burda 7081,View A

Fabric
Black rayon double knit
with tricot knit for lining (regretting this decision, it wants to stick to me)
Both from High Fashion Fabrics in Houston.

Construction
No problems with the pattern.  It went together well.

Fitting
Oh, my!!!!
I used a good part of my engineering degree to fit this dress.  
Square neckline + asymmetrical shoulders = fitting nightmare

I started with fitting the dress, which is not too bad, it has princess lines.  Then, comes the straps/sleeve.  The left and right pieces are no where close to being alike to get a fit, but they have to appear alike or the dress doesn't appear symmetrical.  It took a couple of tries, but I worked it out!!!  

Burda 7081


Side view

Back view with string hanging off me and wrinkles on my seat.  My photographer isn't into details or delaying  this whole process.  It is wonderful that my husband humors me enough to take a few good shots.  

Sunday, October 26, 2014

The Zoe Dress from Serendipity Studio

 If you want a true opinion of something, ask your kids.
If you want fashion advice, don't ask your kids.
I was scared to wear this dress in public after a low opinion was handed out by my kids.  
None of them liked the fabric or the pattern.  
I think they are wrong.

The Zoe Dress from Serendipity Studio

Pattern
The Zoe Dress from Serendipity Studio

Fabric
Plum print from Fabric Finders 
Lilac petite piping
lilac silk organza
plum rayon lining




Changes to construction
The beauty of this dress is the wide waistband and the pleated skirt.  Broadcloth is usually not  enough fabric without interfacing to keep a waistband from wrinkling with a full skirt.  Since the waistband piece is so large, I didn't want to interface it and make it appear stiff, so I used silk organza to underline the waistband and the bodice front and back.  I love the effect is has on the drape.  It moves, but always pops back into place.

The seams were done more in the couture style and are all one inch.  I omitted the facings and completely lined it.  I also hand stitched the lining to the neckline and it feels wonderful, so little bulk.

Fitting Changes
Well, after loosing so much weight, I decided to go down in size.  That would have worked wonderfully if I had remembered I was an XL, instead I chose a medium and altered it up to a large.  It was a rabbit trail that I didn't have time to follow.  

I made my usual changes for sloped shoulders and the one lower shoulder.  (See my picture.)  I also did a FBA and took out 1/4" of height in the waistband.  The waistband wanted to catch on my high hip and it didn't look good. 

Back of the muslin.  


The back of Zoe.  See the lineup of the piping!!!!

I like it!

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Floral Knit Top, Simplicity 1916

Simplicity 1916

Pattern
Simplicity 1916, View D

Fabric
ITY floral print from Sawyer Brook
(very nice to sew)

Fitting Adjustments
I would strongly suggest making a muslin of this top before you get started.  I used plain muslin, but made sure it fit very tight.  

Sloped shoulder for the right side.
FBA by hinging to the pleats in the bodice pieces.
Added 2" to the "skirt" part of the front to give it enough fabric to gather in the middle.

Back view

Happy this top matches the black ponte skirt that I made last week!