Sunday, June 28, 2015

Tween Dress Magic. McCall's M7079

Tween dress winner, McCall's M7079

McCall's M7079, View F

Red tye dye rayon knit from High Fashion Fabrics
Denim knit from Helen Enox Fabrics (This is great fabric.  Mostly used for leggings, but it hangs on the skirt like a million bucks.)

Construction and Changes
I love this pattern and it fits well.  I self-lined the bodice.  Added clear elastic to the waistline where the denim knit and tye dye meet.  Under stitched the neckline.  

Back view

One happy tween.

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Found a New Favorite, Colette's Myrtle

A new favorite dress pattern, 

Colette Patterns, Myrtle, Version 1

Poly knit pink and black paisley from Fabric Mart

Fit and Construction Changes:
1.  Took out the extra bodice and back height so I could serge a clear elastic waistband inside the dress.  See below pictures.
2.  Changed the shoulder slope on the back pattern piece.
3.  Used a Med size back and a Large on the front to eliminate the FBA.
4.  Cut the skirt back on the fold.

My Thoughts:
1.  This pattern gets an A+ on the bodice construction!  
2.  Eliminating the bulk of a casing for the waist is a plus!
3.  This knit is wonderful.  Wonderful to sew.  Wonderful to drape. Wonderful to wear!
4.  This dress will be made again.
5.  From the time I opened the pattern to putting on the dress took 2 1/2 hours.  Includes: tracing the pattern, fitting from my sloper, threading mess with the serger, sewing it together and giving it a quick press.

Back pattern piece.  Removed about 1 1/4" height.

Front pattern piece.  Removed 1 1/4" height from both the inside and outside layers.

Back waistline.  Pinned the skirt and bodice together.  Pinned clear elastic (cut to my waist measurement) where the seam line would be stitched.  Machine basted with a long stitch length, stretching the clear elastic to match the fabric.  Best to do this in quarter sections. After basting, I serger the two fabrics together catching the elastic in the stitching.  

Front waistline.

Side view
Love the drape.  

Back view.

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

I won, I won!!!

My local SAGA group hosted at Gail Doane workshop back in March.  Our project was the Entredeaux Edge Capri Set.  If we finished the outfit by June, our name went in a hat for a gift certificate to our local heirloom and smocking shop, Buttons and Bows.  

I WON!!!!

Even better than just winning is a completed class project.

If you ever have a chance to take a class from Gail Doane, DO IT!!!  Her techniques are wonderful.  Her teaching style is so calm and reassuring.  You won't be disappointed.

Completed front of the top.  I learned the technique for cast-on flowers, but still need to perfect it.

Up, close detail.  Don't look too hard!

The pants are too cute and reversible.

Gail Doane and myself at the workshop.

Sunday, June 7, 2015

Summer Sewing, Butterick B6026

Blouse, Butterick B6026, Skirt, Self drafted from sloper both from Lisette fabrics from JoAnn's.

My part of the country went from wet to hot overnight!!!  
(I could hardly open my eyes for this picture because the light was so bright this morning.)

This sleeveless top is a must for hot and sticky weather.  

Blouse, Butterick B6026, View A
Skirt, Self Drafted from sloper

Green print stretch broadcloth from the Lisette Collection from JoAnn's.
Green twill from the Lisette Collection from JoAnn's.
Both fabrics have been in my stash for a little while, ok, maybe a few years.

As many different garments I have sewn, I had never done a stand collar before.  The instructions were great in the pattern.  No problems.  I knew that my goal was to have both sides exactly the same.  Miraculously, it occurred without seam ripping or tears on my part.  

The skirt was a simple A-line with a side invisible zipper and a Petersham waistband.  I need to make one of these skirts in every color of the rainbow.  

Always my issue!!!

See the following pattern piece pictures to see my adjustments.  The back is still a little too wide, so I may take the back darts in a little.  The back photo has some fabric pulled to the front.  
There was too much shirt from the bust line to the shoulder, so a fold there.  Adjustment for shoulder slope.  Added an armhole bust dart to take up the extra fabric.  

Too much shirt vertically from the armhole to the shoulder.  See the fold line.  By folding here, I was hoping to not have to redraft the armhole.  Shoulder slope adjusted.  

A little too much fabric in the back. I had about an inch pulled to the front.  Hence, a few wrinkles.

Butterick B6026 from Lisette Fabric from JoAnn's.

Not bad details!  I love this shirt!