Sunday, February 21, 2016

Ensemble by Simplicity, 1072 & 8016

Simplicity 1072 & 8016

Top, Simplicity 8016
Skirt, Simplicity 1072

Top - Coral lace knit from Fabric Mart
Skirt - Floral black ponte from Girl Charlee
Scarf - Black ruffle from Ruffle Fabrics

Construction details:
Skirt - Very easy.  Serge the side seams and coverstitch the hem.  Waistband has enclosed elastic.
Top - Did a ton of fit alterations on this top.  The fabric loves to stick to the cami underneath and create all sorts of pull lines.  
Scarf - Twelve inch piece of black ruffle fabric sewn together length-wise and then sew the ends together.  10 minute project.

This is a comfy and easy to wear ensemble. Love it!

Saturday, February 13, 2016

Valentine Top, M7251

M7251 Lawn Paisley Top

My top was completed a few weeks ago, but the weather has been too cool to wear this lightweight and breathable top.  Today was the perfect weather and just in time for Valentine's Day.  

McCall's M 7251, View A

Red paisley lawn from Fabric Mart

Alteration and Construction Woes:
1.  I made very few alterations to this pattern.  I changed the shoulder slope and added fabric to the underarm.  I also forward rotated the sleeve.  
2.  The placket directions were not great.  I should have done an heirloom placket. They go in much easier than this mess and don't leave a weak spot where you clip.  
3.  For a loose fitting garment, it is too tight across the back.  Another 1/2" would have give me perfect mobility.  I am mobile, but that would have made it perfect.  
4.  So glad this fabric is as light as a feather or the puff sleeves would look like clown sleeves.
5.  The placket ends about 2" above my belly button.  So, be prepared to sew that placket down or it will be a gapping top.

Not too bad of a project, but not a beginner project.

White Topstitching Detail

Back View

Pleats and Topstitching

Raised the underarm and altered shoulder slope.
Happy Valentine's Day!

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Chambray Dixie Woven Top

StyleArc Dixie Woven Top

January was a whirlwind, but I did manage to sew a few items.  I just didn't get photos yet........

StyleArc Dixie Woven Top

Robert Kaufman chambray

Construction Notes: 
I had to laugh, because I read the instructions after I made the top.  So, there are a few missed steps. The biggest difference being the hem finish on the side.  

I found the fitting a little tough, but I am SO happy with the results.

Changes to the pattern:
1.  I found the front neckline too wide.
2.  Changed the shoulder slope for my sloping shoulders.
3.  Added about 1 1/4" to the length of the top bodice section.  The pattern drawing looked like the joining line was at the top of the bust line, so I had to move it to match mine.  
4.  Took out a little length in the center back (in the armsceye).
5.  Added a 1/2" on the left side to account for more of me.
6.  Lowered the sleeve cap and added a slight forward rotated shoulder adjustment.

What I love:
1.  Great topstitching detail on this top.
2.  After all the fit alterations, it fits like a dream.  No pulling or tight spots and I have worn it all day. It is amazing that a well fitted top doesn't move around on your body and need adjustments during the day.  It also doesn't bind when you are moving around.  Sometimes, a top is just too big overall, not this one.  Just love it.

Side View, Dixie Woven Top

Back view

Top-stitching Detail

Alterations: Sloping shoulders, narrowed the neckline, added about 1 1/4" in length

Alterations: Sloping shoulder, reduced length in center back, added length under the armsceye.

Alterations: Reduced sleeve cap height, tilted the sleeve cap for forward rotated shoulder.
My son in Austin at YMCA Youth & Government Mock Trial, 6th Place Team
Two sons receive their Eagle Scout Awards.