Sunday, February 9, 2014

Another fit feather in my hat, Vogue V8886

Vogue V8886

Vogue V8886, View B

Black and white houndstooth novelty fabric
woven on one side and flannel on the other.  
I chose to use the flannel for the right side.

Fitting Notes:
Since my last post on fitting, I have been ruthlessly working on this dress.  Or should I say the muslin of this dress.  Six weeks of meddling with the muslin.  

My fit issues:
assymetrical sloping shoulders
large arms
forward rotated shoulder

All of that sums up to LOTS GOING ON IN THE SHOULDER AREA!

I have looked up forward rotated shoulders on every website. blog and book I own.  I tried them all during my muslin assembly line. I found "Fitting and Pattern Alteration," by Liechty, Rasband, and Pottberg-Steineckert has a small section on altering for this issue.  IT WORKS.  The one thing that is missing from their notes is how much of an alteration to do.  I found that I needed about 1/2" forward shoulder joint adjustment and that solves lots of issues.  My clothes aren't trying to come up my back any more.  

I also used Connie Crawford's sleeve adjustment to give more movement.  

I think I went through almost a bolt of muslin fabric, but I understand the relationships between sleeves, armseye, sleeve cap, and front and back bodice widths.  I guess the education was worth it, because I have so much more confidence with that area of the fit process.

Construction Details:
After making so many muslins of this dress, I no longer needed the instructions.  I did have to hand baste all the vertical seams to match the plaids.  The zipper was hand picked to match the plaids.   The whole dress was put together in less than a week after the fitting was done.   

Neckline and bodice details of V8886

Vogue V8886
Hand picked zipper 

Bodice and neckline details.

I can't wait to apply what I learned to another project!!!!!

1 comment:

  1. Hi dress looks great on you. You have done an amazing job on the fit and the time taken to match the plaids has given you a high end looking dress. Congratulations