I am so in love with this jacket pattern, the Catherine Coat, by Serendipity Studio. I am so pleased with the results of the sewing, but it was a journey to finish. A few years ago, I had found this lovely red and black crushed velveteen at a bargain price. I even have it in a beautiful green, which may be next years' project. I decided to tackle something for me for Christmas with those fabrics. After searching through my patterns, I pulled out the jacket pattern, the Catherine Coat. I also used the yoke from Simplicity 2410 for the skirt.
As you can see the jacket is a great fit. I made a large size and was concerned about the fit (ok, I didn't make a muslin and I usually do). I have made her skirts in a large and ended up taking it in by a few inches. The gathering in the bodice was just enough without being too much. The gathering in the sleeves was just enough without becoming a puffy sleeve. The length was just right and hits right at the hipline. The pattern has three hem lengths and a few options on the embellishments. The only interesting note is the cuff is not a pattern piece, but a simple statement about if you want a large or small cuff, cut this size. I chose the larger size due to the fabric type. Looking back, I could have gone either large or small. The jacket is not lined, which was a great choice for this project. This jacket would not be worn with another shirt underneath, so even using it for something else would not include a lining. (Hope this helps someone thinking about constructing one themselves.)
I chose to use black silk shantung for the collar, belt, facings, and trim around the cuffs. I also used it in the underside of the red collar. I referred to my trusted Sandra Betzina book, Fabric Savvy. It said to use a walking foot or a roller foot. I think I slept between reading and doing and used a teflon foot. It sure was a pain to even sew a straight seam. My sweet advisors on the Delphi website reminded me that I needed less pressure, not even pressure on the foot. A good lesson I won't forget to use when I get around to the green velveteen.
I found these lovely silver buttons at the International Quilt Festival in Houston. I was determined to use them, but after trouble sewing a straight seam, I was distraught at the thought of buttonholes. (Even more distressing was the thought of bound buttonholes.) I tested a sample on a scrap and had no problems. Was it possible to easily sew in a buttonhole without stabilizer or anything special? YES! I did choose a jacket buttonhole stitch on my Viking sewing machine, but that is all I did for better than expected buttonholes.
I will review this cute skirt pattern later, but this is Simplicity 2410. I love the fit of the waist. It has a side zipper (I used a black invisible one). I gathered the skirt and stitched it to the waistband. It is so soft and comfortable to wear. One note about crushed velveteen, the black fabric has a shimmer to it and it doesn't matter what I do, the hem looks crooked due to the shimmer of the fabric.
I am very pleased with the results of this jacket and I look forward to using the other jacket patterns from Serendipity Studio.