Friday, December 10, 2010

Serendipity Studio Catherine in a Christmas Jacket

I am so in love with this jacket pattern, the Catherine Coat, by Serendipity Studio.  I am so pleased with the results of the sewing, but it was a journey to finish.  A few years ago, I had found this lovely red and black crushed velveteen at a bargain price.  I even have it in a beautiful green, which may be next years' project.  I decided to tackle something for me for Christmas with those fabrics.  After searching through my patterns, I pulled out the jacket pattern, the Catherine Coat.  I also used the yoke from Simplicity 2410 for the skirt. 

As you can see the jacket is a great fit.  I made a large size and was concerned about the fit (ok, I didn't make a muslin and I usually do).  I have made her skirts in a large and ended up taking it in by a few inches.  The gathering in the bodice was just enough without being too much.  The gathering in the sleeves was just enough without becoming a puffy sleeve.  The length was just right and hits right at the hipline.  The pattern has three hem lengths and a few options on the embellishments.  The only interesting note is the cuff is not a pattern piece, but a simple statement about if you want a large or small cuff, cut this size.  I chose the larger size due to the fabric type.  Looking back, I could have gone either large or small.  The jacket is not lined, which was a great choice for this project.  This jacket would not be worn with another shirt underneath, so even using it for something else would not include a lining.  (Hope this helps someone thinking about constructing one themselves.)

I chose to use black silk shantung for the collar, belt, facings, and trim around the cuffs.  I also used it in the underside of the red collar.  I referred to my trusted Sandra Betzina book, Fabric Savvy.  It said to use a walking foot or a roller foot.  I think I slept between reading and doing and used a teflon foot.  It sure was a pain to even sew a straight seam.  My sweet advisors on the Delphi website reminded me that I needed less pressure, not even pressure on the foot.  A good lesson I won't forget to use when I get around to the green velveteen.

I found these lovely silver buttons at the International Quilt Festival in Houston.  I was determined to use them, but after trouble sewing a straight seam, I was distraught at the thought of buttonholes.  (Even more distressing was the thought of bound buttonholes.)  I tested a sample on a scrap and had no problems.  Was it possible to easily sew in a buttonhole without stabilizer or anything special?  YES!  I did choose a jacket buttonhole stitch on my Viking sewing machine, but that is all I did for better than expected buttonholes.

I will review this cute skirt pattern later, but this is Simplicity 2410.  I love the fit of the waist.  It has a side zipper (I used a black invisible one).  I gathered the skirt and stitched it to the waistband.  It is so soft and comfortable to wear.  One note about crushed velveteen, the black fabric has a shimmer to it and it doesn't matter what I do, the hem looks crooked due to the shimmer of the fabric.

I am very pleased with the results of this jacket and I look forward to using the other jacket patterns from Serendipity Studio.

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