Friday, November 26, 2010

Cool Weather Jacket that is sooo Cozy...McCall's M4961

I knew I needed this pink ultra-suede and berber backed fabric when I saw it, but what do you do with it.  It sat in my fabric storage for a year or two.  Then I got the courage to work with it.  This pattern is the simplest jacket pattern I could find, McCall's M4961. I was looking for straight lines and few seams. 

I followed Sandra Betzina's directions for suede in Fabric Savvy.  Thread: Polyester, Stitch Length: 3.0mm, Walking Foot,  Seam Finish: Fake Flat Fell.  I did not dare make a button hole, so I cut squares of the fabric and turned the ends over and topstitched them into place.  Then added the toggle buttons and leather loops.  

My topstitching was not perfect, but I had never taken on such a fabric.  It appears that the ultra suede was interfaced to this fuzzy berber.  All the trim is just the fabrics underside of berber.  It is the softest coat and it was already self lined.

I picture of my inside seams.

attern Description: CHILDREN'S AND GIRLS UNLINED COATS AND HATS: Coats have button closures; coat A has fake fur; coats B, C, D and E have pockets, cuffs and stitched hems

Pattern Sizing:Girls X-Small - X-Large

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?yes, It shows multiple views of almost the same jacket. Mine had pockets.

Were the instructions easy to follow?yes, but my fabric choice led me in to a different construction.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?Simple lines for fabric that may not be the easiest to work with.

Fabric Used:Pink ultrasuede with a berber interfaced underside. I purchased it this way.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:I followed Fabric Savvy's advice by Sandra Betzina for ultrasuede. Longer stitch length, walking foot, and most importantly the fake flat fell seam. This is done by sewing a normal seam then trimming one side. The longer side is then folded over the short seam and folded and topstitched in place. This solved my seam finish problem with this fabric. Since the underside was a berber, you can hardly see the seams from the inside. Instead of button holes, I choose to sew little squares on the jacket and flip up the sides and then topstitch it. I was not familiar with sewing on this fabric and was a little worried about the outcome. Fortunately this is one of my better experiments. (My recent experience with crushed velveteen was not.)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?This is a simple jacket and is great to try with an interesting fabric choice. If you make it of a solid fabric, it would be boring and I would choose something with more details.

Conclusion: A winner of a project with ultrasuede!


  1. Oh, I love, love, love this coat! Ultrasuede, yum!! Where did you find this unique combo?