Sunday, October 26, 2014

The Zoe Dress from Serendipity Studio

 If you want a true opinion of something, ask your kids.
If you want fashion advice, don't ask your kids.
I was scared to wear this dress in public after a low opinion was handed out by my kids.  
None of them liked the fabric or the pattern.  
I think they are wrong.

The Zoe Dress from Serendipity Studio

The Zoe Dress from Serendipity Studio

Plum print from Fabric Finders 
Lilac petite piping
lilac silk organza
plum rayon lining

Changes to construction
The beauty of this dress is the wide waistband and the pleated skirt.  Broadcloth is usually not  enough fabric without interfacing to keep a waistband from wrinkling with a full skirt.  Since the waistband piece is so large, I didn't want to interface it and make it appear stiff, so I used silk organza to underline the waistband and the bodice front and back.  I love the effect is has on the drape.  It moves, but always pops back into place.

The seams were done more in the couture style and are all one inch.  I omitted the facings and completely lined it.  I also hand stitched the lining to the neckline and it feels wonderful, so little bulk.

Fitting Changes
Well, after loosing so much weight, I decided to go down in size.  That would have worked wonderfully if I had remembered I was an XL, instead I chose a medium and altered it up to a large.  It was a rabbit trail that I didn't have time to follow.  

I made my usual changes for sloped shoulders and the one lower shoulder.  (See my picture.)  I also did a FBA and took out 1/4" of height in the waistband.  The waistband wanted to catch on my high hip and it didn't look good. 

Back of the muslin.  

The back of Zoe.  See the lineup of the piping!!!!

I like it!

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Floral Knit Top, Simplicity 1916

Simplicity 1916

Simplicity 1916, View D

ITY floral print from Sawyer Brook
(very nice to sew)

Fitting Adjustments
I would strongly suggest making a muslin of this top before you get started.  I used plain muslin, but made sure it fit very tight.  

Sloped shoulder for the right side.
FBA by hinging to the pleats in the bodice pieces.
Added 2" to the "skirt" part of the front to give it enough fabric to gather in the middle.

Back view

Happy this top matches the black ponte skirt that I made last week!

Sunday, October 12, 2014

Fast Sewing for Fall, Simplicity 1716 and New Look 6288

Autumn is upon us in the South.  We know it because the temperature has fallen to 80 degrees!!!
Just kidding!  It is a welcome relief to see something lower than 90 degrees after months of heat.

I whipped up something fast to wear for the new weather.

Simplicity 1716

Top - Simplicity 1716, View F
Skirt - New Look 6288, View A with a few modifications

Top - geometric ITY jersey print from High Fashion Fabrics
Skirt - black rayon double knit from High Fashion Fabrics

Fitting on Top
It is easy to see why this top is a Pattern Review Top Pattern of the Year, it is a great sew!!!
When I compared my sloper to this top, I found the front to be way too long and my one seriously slopping shoulder needed to be addressed.  I know from experience that I need a FBA, even on a knit.

My fitting changes to Simplicity 1716

So, this is the front pattern piece.  I added 1/2" to each side seam to add a little extra room for the FBA.  The left side (right on me) shows where I lowered the shoulder.  You can also see where I overlapped the extra height across the width of the pattern.  I don't like taking out in the armhole, but the waist to underarm seam was good for this top, so it came out at a higher spot.

After the pattern changes were done, this top went together in about an hour.  Very easy and enjoyable sew!!!

Back vent added to New Look 6288

Pattern Changes to the Skirt
I wanted a fitted black knit skirt.  Not the skin tight versions, but a flattering one for my age.  In all the skirt patterns I own, none fit the design I had in mind.  So, I designed my own.
I started with New Look 6288, View A.
1.  Shortened it to just below the knee.
2.  Tapered the side seams in from mid thigh to hem.
3.  Added a back vent for walking ease.

Totally happy with the results!!!
Bring on the cold weather!!!
Side view of Simplicity 1716
Love the cowl neckline!  Can you tell my shoulders are uneven?  This top is a great disguise.

Great fall outfit!

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Last of Summer Tops, New Look 6296

The calendar may say fall, but we can see no end of summer in southeast Texas.  Fall wardrobes consists of summer pieces in darker colors.  

I finished this top a short time ago, but never got a picture of it.  My helper is feigning yard work in these pictures.  She told me a prop is good for pictures.

hot pink bamboo knit and white polyester stretch lace.  Both from High Fashion Fabrics in Houston.

This top needs a little more structure than bamboo knit will give.  
It needs something to hold that back shape.  

Adding binding to polyester stretch lace will not be repeated again in my sewing room.   The lace was so slick, it slid right out of the serger!!!!

New Look 6296, view A

I found the pattern easy to put together.  Since bamboo knit doesn't have any structure to it, I did take up the armhole and neckline.  The back top piece seems too wide.  It may be from using two different types of fabric, but when I laid the actual pattern pieces together, I found a little extra on the size 10 top piece.  

I can't wait for fall sewing.  Just need a day cooler than 90 degrees to inspire me!!!