|Vera Wang White Eyelet and New Look 6205|
This dress may be one of my favorites of all the dresses I have made.
I love the style and the drape of the dress.
I cut it out on Palm Sunday and she wore it to Easter service today.
There are tons of details on this dress.
|Vera Wang Eyelet and New Look 6205 Back View|
Fashion Fabric: White Vera Wang Eyelet purchased from Connie Palmer about 4 years ago at Martha Pullen Sewing School. Farmhouse Fabrics still has this in stock, but it is in the Barn Closeout section.
Underlining: Salmon Pink Polyester lining from my stash
Lining: White lawn from my stash
New Look 6205, view A
I did a muslin of this the week before.
To cut all three layers of wiggle fabric took a little brainstorming. So this was my solution:
1. Tape two large pieces (more than 2 yards) of butcher paper together.
2. Pin the lawn layer to the butcher paper. I did this with the fabric open. (Only one layer) Pin it all the way around and some in the middle.
3. Pin the pink lining fabric to the top of the white lawn. Pin all the way through the lawn and include the butcher paper. This was done with the fabric open. (Only one layer)
4. Pin the eyelet to the top of the pink polyester. Pinning all the way through to the butcher paper.
When I finished the pinning of the fabric to the paper, I could move the paper and fabric around my cutting table and nothing moved.
I positioned the pattern pieces on the top of this fabric sandwich and pinned it well. I cut out each piece, reversing those that needed a mirror image. I DID NOT remove the pins from any of this sandwich.
|This is a sample of the edge of my fabric and paper sandwich.|
I wanted to use the pink polyester lining as the underlining and the white lawn as the true lining fabric. So I needed to join the eyelet and pink underlining fabric as the seams. In true couture style I hand basted the center bodice section with it still pinned to the paper and in my fabric sandwich. After doing that piece, I realized that if we were going to finish this by Easter, I better come up with a faster plan.
So, I took each pattern piece in the fabric sandwich and folded down the paper and white lawn and ran the side seams through my sewing machine on a basting stitch. The eyelet had to go on the feed dogs or it would stretch. While not technically true couture, it worked on my time budget.
All the seams were done this way, except for the top of the skirt. I joined all three layers, except for the last 1 1/2" near the sides.
By keeping all three layers pinned to the paper, there was no distortion or stretching of the pattern pieces. A great solution for lining fabric that doesn't want to hold its shape and the eyelet was a tough fabric because it would stretch easily where there were holes. (Holes happened to be everywhere.)
German Interfacing was used on the neck and shoulder line for about 3" from the neckline to give it a little firmness.
The front and back skirt pleats were done as one, through all three layers of fabric.
|Bodice Close-up View|
I assembled the dress mostly according to the pattern, but with a complete lining. The neckline was understitched. The satin ribbon was added. Since six layers of fabric came together for the zipper, I used a regular zipper, instead of an invisible one. The zipper was a bear to get in properly, the eyelet wanted to stretch and pucker. So, I hand picked the zipper to insert it and it looks like an invisible zipper. I will keep the hand picked zipper in my sewing skill set because it works so well.
For the hem of the skirt and sleeves, I used a catch stitch to lay the eyelet and pink lining fabric flat. Then I slipped stitched the white lawn down, covering the edges of the eyelet. This combo makes a wonderful hem and makes the edges of the dress look like they float. You can't see the hemline or feel any bulk.
The satin ribbon rose is a double loop rose from the Kari Mecca line of Sewing with Whimsy books.
This dress looks great and hangs wonderfully. The few couture details really added a lot to the final product. It amazes me the added body a fabric has with an underlining. I was so pleased with the underlining, that I can see more of this in my future projects.
Happy Easter! He is Risen!